Any detail about our trip to this island should be preceded by some information about the significance of Chiloe. Officially the fifth largest island in South America it lies in southern Chile in the Los Lagos region. It is separated from the Chilean mainland by the Canal Chacao (Chacao Strait) and is in the Pacific Ocean.
The Ferry Crossing
The significance of this island is its identity in terms of culture, traditions and food. Most parts of Chiloe have not succumbed to the pressures of modern day tourism with millions of hotels and commercial structures but have slowly grown with the needs of its people. Being isolated from mainland Chile for centuries, the “Chilote” developed a strong, self-reliant culture, rich in folklore, mythology and tradition. Today’s Chiloe still exudes the charm of another time and a very indigenous people. It has also been proven that the most common form of potato cultivated all over the world (Solanum tuberosum tuberosum) is indigenous to Chiloé and has been cultivated by the people indeigenous much before the advent of the Spanish.
Chacao
Given such facts, it would have been foolish for us not to make a trip to Chiloe. The Chilean government has not build any bridge from the mainland, and any trip would be on a ferry crossing that leaves every 20 minutes and runs 24 hours. The half hour ferry crossing to the island is
Wooden Church
by itself not very interesting, but as we went off the main road towards the village of Chacao on unpaved roads, the real face of Chiloe emerged. Small farms with very traditional methods of cultivation, cattle and sheep rearing and very simple living were a few things that is noticeable. Down by the
Indigenous Chilote
Pacific fishing is the only subsistence for these people and the shore is dotted with colorful fishing boats anchored in rows.
Chiloe Landscape
As we drove through the island the landscape was covered in intense yellow flowers of the gorse shrub which was brought by the German, English and other European settlers to the mainland for their fencing needs. The undulating land breaks into secluded coves and lagoons adding character and color to this land.
The Coves
We reached Puñihuil after an hours drive to visit the Penguin Islands which are just off the coast. Here in these islands Penguins flock in hoards to nest in September and they move on to the Antarctic around March when the chicks have enough strength to follow their parents. The boats take
Yellow
you around these small islands where we watched a variety of catamarans, gulls, a few penguins on sentry to their nests and of course playful young otters and a couple of very pregnant sea-lions. There is no pollution and nature is at its pure best. The sound of the waves and the cries of the sea-gulls fight for prominence while gentler chirping of the other birds add a musical punctuation.
Rock Cormorants
Back on shore the simple lunch of grilled fresh hake and boiled potatoes was great, and honestly potatoes never tasted better than in Chile. We then drove on to Ancud, the second largest city on the island where the shiny modern Chile is left far behind and the small-
Flirting Penguins
town relaxed pace is ever so evident at every street corner. With time constraint, its a shame we could not make it to Castro, further south, which has some unique features, but compromises are a part of life. So back on the ferry to the mainland, we reached Puerto Varas around 7.00pm. Tonight dinner was at Chamaca
Pregnant Sea lions
Inn, another seafood restaurant where only the locals go. Do not ever make the mistake of going to a German or Italian restaurant (there are many) when in Puerto Varas. The mussels were ‘king size’, the crab claws were enormous and that was followed by prawns and reneita (a delicious local fish) p with a dessert of crepes around ‘lucuma helado’ to add more inches to our waist expansion! Pity those who starve away from good food:)
Did I mention the Pisco Sours? Oh we had some more again……and there is often a blur after that!
