And so it was quite a night yesterday after I left you all wondering what and where the dinner would be. We did wonder a bit around Plaza de Armas last night but eventually ended up in Bella Vista, unable to ignore what goes on in this bohemian district of Santiago. Numerous clubs, bars and discotheques with crowds spilling out on the streets is what we encountered, but no places for a meal. Finally we discovered the Patio Bella Vista, an enclave of more sophisticated watering holes and eateries. Restaurante Barandiaran was our destination. After a few Pisco Sours and local Cervezas (beer) this Peruvian eatery offered us some very authentic food. Arroz Mariscos (a Peruvian version of the Paella with mixed seafood) and Corvina Macho ( fillet of fish with a sprinkling of assorted seafood with rice in a subtle garlic wine sauce) stole our heart and belly. Highly recommended. Mesmerised by the live music in every corner we came back to the hotel pretty late and vanished under the covers!
Patio Bella Vista
This morning, I woke up rather early as my body still clocks GMT at 5 hours difference. Surprisingly the day broke with bright sunlight, a gentle breeze and very little smog. After a failed attempt to work out in the gym (closed on Sundays) we gorged on some fresh fruit and berry yoghurt for breakfast and did a bit of lie in. Around midday we visited the church of San Francisco next door, where a Sunday service was on and much to our surprise found church goers with their pets amongst row of ‘confessions’ and very religious Santiguinos in a trance of Catholic high. A walk upto to foothill of the Cerro Santa Lucia next, this is the hillock which provided camping ground for Pedro de Valdivia and his men, who in 1540 founded the city of Santiago. Charles Darwin on his visit to Santiago in August 1834 climbed this ‘little hillock of rock’ and noted it for the striking views – specially the Andes. The climb was fairly steep but the view and the ambience did make good for the loss of breath.
The Andes over Santiago from Santa Lucia
After little more than an hour of watching Santiago go by from a height we strolled back to the Palacio de la Moneda (the Presidential Palace). La Moneda, it is so called because it was originally designed by the Italian architect Joaquin Toesca as the country’s mint and was completed in 1805. It became the adobe of Chilean presidents from 1846 till General Pinochet bombed it in 1973 during the coup against President Dr. Salvator Allende’s government.
La Moneda, the Presidential Palace
Much can be written about those days, but I would rather leave you to research on the politics of Chile. A brief visit and the walk had already got the first pangs of hunger waking up in the corners on our enormous bellies! (Did I ever mention my fight with the bulge?!)
Food time, and it had to be the Mercado Central. A mile up towards the Mapocho river we hit the lunch time rush at this ‘wrought-iron splendour’ of Santiago.
Inside Mercado Central
If you are hungry and like seafood – you cant go wrong. Honestly, this is the best it can get. Bustling with character of such markets around the world, this elegant structure is worthy of attention. Designed in Chile but built in England (!) the market was inaugurated in 1872 as a site of national exhibitions. Today apart from wholesale fish, vegetable and fruit wholesale markets, it offers an array of fish restaurants with the Donde Augosto taking centre stage. We were seated amidst discerning Chilenos who love their seafood and advised on the extensive seafood menu. After a few Pisco Sours, we decided on the King Crab in garlic butter for starters, Asparagus with Hollandaise as ensalada and Curenta (seafood, sausage, ham and chicken broth) and a mixed seafood platter for main course.
Assorted Seafood
When here, make it clear where you are from and an English version of the menu will help to know what you eat.After two hours of gluttony we headed towards Plaza de Armas and spent an hour amidst the ‘Sunday soaking’ Santiguinos in splendid colour and typical form. Later walking down the Paseo Ahumada, there was an extensive flea market, street performances and a procession of friendly locals with a big smile on their faces.
Dancing in the Streets - Paseo Ahumada
Back in the hotel and on my second bottle of Cerveza Austral (local beer) I am almost frightened at the thought of waking up at 2.00am for a 3.00 am pick up to the airport for our onward journey to San Pedro de Atacama, the base town to explore the world’s driest desert. It is bound to be exciting and I will continue to write without a guarantee of when it will be uploaded!
P.S: It has been very sunny and slightly nippy in Santiago today and we did get some decent views of the Andes.
