Day 7 The Climb to the Torres del Paine Base

Today I woke up to a bright sunny day with a clear view of the Paine massif from our room at the Hosteria Las Torres and felt recharged for the trek ahead. The climb up to the base of the Torres del Paine is supposedly 4 hours up and 3.5 hours down but most people do it in 8 hours and more – we were therefore advised to leave by 9 am sharp. However, early in the morning I realised my wife will not be my company for the climb as she was down with a sore throat and temperature.

View From the Window

Not a very good start – simply because I had opted out of a guided trek and had decided to go on our own till wherever we could. That left me on my own for the whole hike and by the time we had breakfast the guided hikes had already left.

Start of the Climb

So the brave man gathered all his wits and started off at 10.00am for the way up. After about 20 minutes of walk I was confused about the route and almost believed I was going the wrong way. So I turned around and walked back 15 minutes with the intention of checking with the hotel, but something told me to carry on and so I did. I turned around and once again followed the path up – to somewhere! An hour’s climb through the foothills and not passing a single living being I took my first break.

Walked On These Ledges

The sun was on my face and the fierce Patagonian wind made things slightly more difficult. It was here when I suddenly noticed a signage pointing towards the Refugio El Chileno, the halfway point to the top. That brought some relief and I resumed my trek. The view was breathtaking though sometimes scary, particularly when I walked the edge on loose ground with the valley a few thousands meters below, where the Rio Ascension gushed through.

The Way Up Through the Forest

At midday I reached the camp where I met a couple taking a breather, they were on their way as well but had started their journey much earlier – that was an ego boost for me. I was on my way again and this time through a forest with steep climbs over uprooted trees and streams. It started getting colder and the sound of the wind was stronger. After about an hour of crossing the forest and single log bridges I reached a clearing and went the wrong way.

And Now The Rocks

A few minutes to correct my path seemed like hours and the climb was telling. The next phase was on rocks and boulders where the vegetation was sparse and this continued for a while. The body struggled but the mind pushed on….there was no giving up at this stage. The sights of the snow covered barren peaks were fascinating and yet threatening. I passed over rock littered openings which were most certainly landslides and feared the worst looking down and moved on.

The Snow Came Next - The Torres In The Distance

Then I met a couple descending, who reassured that the goal was 30 minutes after a steep climb through some snow. And so it was, more pushing and groping of the rocks and on to the snow. A walk over and around the rock face and there was nothing in view, when suddenly I took a step up and pulled myself over to a most awesome view of the three towers! And there was a frozen lake too at its foot.

And Finally - What a Sight!

Oh what a sight! And much to my relief I found a group of young French students following chase and soon were with me. A few pictures and a an hour of admiring a spectacular creation of nature I started my descent.

I must warn you that the way down got even more difficult as the steep edges were a nightmare to manoeuvre and even with some levels of fitness I struggled, my knees took the pounding and the lungs sang a different tune, but with just one more break in between, I made it to the hotel at 5.30pm.

A Closer Look at the Torres

A word of warning – if you are in the Torres del Paine National Park, you have to do this trek – but make sure you are mentally prepared, have a certain level of fitness, carry a walking stick, drink enough water, watch your step and most definitely have the desire to see the gorgeous sight that lies ahead. The body will complain but you wont!

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