This morning the first sight from my bed was the magnificent glacier clear in the early morning sun.
The First Sights From Bed
Patagonia is known for its changing weather and it is often a possibility to taste the four seasons in one day of spring. So you have to say ‘yes’ to every opportunity or else be left regretting. The skies looked clear and we set out to the viewing galleries for a closer look and feel of the mighty south face of the Perito Moreno Glacier. Don’t ask me to explain the sight as my vocabulary sincerely lacks the ability to describe such grandeur.
The Perito Moreno Glacier
This 195 sq km glacier, though not the largest in the region is most certainly one of the best sights of this kind in the world……..and you can only look at it and keep looking at it, turn away and you want to look at it again! The hues of azure play on its cracks and crevasses and the jutting peaks stand out as a wall on the lake, at 60-80 metres this wall of compact snow has been pretty stable for the last 20 years.
Creme Fraiche And Chocolat
The contrast of the landscape is worth noting as the hills around the glacier have snow only on their peaks while the rest is exposed rock giving it a ‘chocolate on fresh cream’ feel! As you stand soaking the wonder of the moment, blocks of ice keep crashing into the Channel of the Icebergs with thunderous rapture and you keep hearing ‘gun shot’ sounds, which remind you of the motions within the depth of this million year mass.
Through The Beech Trees
The beech forests fringing this ice field is a natural habitat to Patagonian flora and fauna. The most prominent being the Nostros shrub also known as the Chilean Fire Bush, which lends it name to our hotel – Los Notros.
Patagonian Sierra - Finch
Also seen in abundance is the Calafate bush with its distinguishable yellow flowers and then you can see the Patagonian Sierra-Finch, the Crested Caracara, the Patagonian Sparrow with a crown and plenty of hare.
The Crested Caracara
Back to the hotel I feasted on a gourmet spread of Patagonian Hare and a glass of Argentinian Chardonnay. Just an hour to relax and we will be on our way to another adventure – WALKING ON THE GLACIER!
From the Puerto Moreno on Lago Argentina, we took a boat that took us to the face of the glacier and then on to the other side for a walk on the glacier. It was at this point the heavens opened up. Adequately clothed we were more concerned that the walk may not be possible – but hey ho this is a land of extremes and nothing stops. And so after a briefing on dos and don’ts we walked half a mile by the lake to the side of the glacier. Matthias our glacier guide helped us with the iron spike boots and we started our ascent onto the top of the glacier that from a distance looked like ‘fresh cream plaza’.
The Walk Begins on Black Ice
The penguin walk though not very comfortable is most certainly exciting. We passed blue lagoons and flowing water on the glacier and observed crevasses and cracks. At times there was sound of an airplane taking off – but that was the noise of the shifting ice somewhere underneath, although we didn’t feel any tremors. We reached the highest point on the glacier at 80 metres over lake level and by then we were a mile inside the ice field! The descent got us to a valley where we toasted to the life of the Perito Moreno with Scotch on the ‘rocks’ – fresh from the glacier.
On The Glacier
Getting back from the glacier we were cold and hungry. So another round of gourmet Patagonian Lamb Rack (medium rare) and a few glasses of Argentinian Malbec awaited us at the restaurant and the night came early. A full day of relaxation and mountain gazing tomorrow before we leave for El Calafate in the evening.
- The Walk on the Perito Moreno
Love to go there. At the end of the trip please write up a 10 day itenerary (with suggested hotels) which we could follow in a year or two.
10 days in Patagonia is possible but not other parts of Chile. Will email you.